The Aspects of Travel Pictures and Videos Can't Portray

The beauty that only nature can supply 

Below is a video shot in the tourist-haven/holy town of Pushkar, in the Rajasthan state of India. The video is of a local Rajasthani musician sharing traditional music with two western tourists. The room is small, cramped, and filled with the immense scents of spices, as well as the overwhelming cacophony emenating from Pushkar's main drag. It is typical of nearly all small shops in cities around India. Sans explanation, this video seems like a typical interaction between tourists and locals in Pushkar, but what the day actually held is the mystery of travel that one cannot understand through non-direct mediums.

While my lovely travel partner and I did enjoy the music, what this moment truly reminds me of is the confusion I felt towards India at this point in my trip. Three weeks into visiting India, I had found myself full of apprehension towards any person who confronted me on the street. I was beginning to harbor negativity, and found my thoughts revolving around how hard it was to gauge those with good intentions, and those trying to milk me dry. The musician playing for us was a perfect example. This was before I started to understand, or more so, submit to what a truly contradictory, confusing, beautiful, complex, and inviting place India can be. While I left India with nothing but fond memories and a desire to return (as well as a case of Giardia), not every moment was stellar. 

Much like the opaque lines written on an unsuspecting face, without explanation, the situations, places, interactions, and experiences shared in video or photo of travel leaves much to the imagination. In a sense, this is beautiful, but it also portrays an idealistic image that may not meet expectations of those on the medium's intake. While I would take a day of travel over almost any other experience this earth has to offer, it isn't always glorious. Somedays, it's a battle. Be it with hustlers, the weather, fate, or your own alter ego trying to tear you down, it can be rough...but travelers also know that these lows only make the highs that much more euphoric.

As a travel blogger, I would never stray people away from gazing at, reading about, or indulging in any medium about exploration. As a traveler, it would be a fabrication to say I can fully share with you what you would experience if you left the comfort of your own four walls. Enjoy my small sample of India!

11 not so stellar, yet essential experiences in India

 

Ah India, breath it in. Well, don’t breath in too deep, unless you want to inhale an amalgamate of cow excrement, exhaust fumes, and intoxicating splendors of the tongue. While India has a seemingly infinite array of places to go and attractions to visit, the truth is that not everything goes forth as planned. While the list of essential experiences in India is ever expanding, there are, of course, inevitable less-than-stellar situations one will face. Alas, with travel being an exercise in exorcising judgment, here is a list of 11 experiences you are bound to have while in India that may test your patience.

1.)    Stepping in cow pies – Cows are literally roaming free everywhere in India. Even if you aren’t a big beef fan, by the end of your trip you’ll find yourself engrossed with these massive, majestic creatures. The only down side is the amount of excrement the behemoths can create. For those who aren’t aware of where they walk, a foot in shit is definitely in your future. Don’t worry, though, it happens to everyone. In fact, most people see it as a sigh of good luck! 

2.)    Being gored by a seemingly shanti cow – While most the cows are pretty calm and sweet, some of them get annoyed with being touched, slapped, and almost killed by Indian helicopters (rickshaws) on the daily. Ergo, if you mess with the bull, be prepared to get the horns. Just try and make sure you aren’t the one in close enough proximity to be on the receiving end of a powerful head butt.

3.)    Getting clipped by a vehicle cruising through narrow streets – Using a general word like “vehicle,” is the only way to describe all the things that can kill you on Indian streets. Be it a motorbike, car, jeep, rickshaw, human rickshaw, bicycle, or a stampede of goats, if you don’t get out of the way, you are going to feel the pain. Your best bet is to stay your course and let the conductor of the vehicle weave around you.

4.)    Involuntarily participating in a large scale scam- While some of the occurrences on this list are easy to laugh off, this one unfortunately is not. In many parts of India (mostly large cities) large scale scams are created to extort money from tourists. The scam starts with a taxi driver, but usually involves friends placed throughout the city, at hotels, restaurants, and even tourist attractions. Most of the time you end up being taken to a fake destination, or told your hotel has been burned down or closed. In any light, these scams pry on the naïve and the caring, and end up costing most people their Indian innocence. 

5.)    Being lied directly to your face- I’ve been told that maybe fibs mean different things in different cultures, but in many parts of India, they are words which local people say to foreigners. I’m not saying all Indians are liars, but those who interact with tourists seem to have no problem saying something that is absolutely untrue directly to your face.

6.)    Getting hustled by a “holy man” – If a person wants give you tika on your forehead or pray for your family at a holy site, it’s gonna cost you. Be prepared to decline their offer or else dish out a tip you think is fare (which will be scoffed at).

7.)    “Dehli Belly” – …it happens to all of us. Here’s to hoping you are in a nice hotel with a bucket and western toilet! 

8.)    Paying western prices for handmade clothing – This is particular to Rajisthan, but can occur anywhere. India is known for its clothing. Travelers can find fantastic handmade garments for next to nothing. You can even have these clothes tailor made. With that being said, tailors know what their work goes for in the west, so unless you are ready to put on your bargaining face, you may have better luck getting fitted for that fancy suite elsewhere. 

9.)    Taking a rickshaw to the wrong destination and being left – Rickshaw drivers can be dicks. They also don’t care about you or your destination. These ingredients can and will add up to you paying to be taken far away from the destination you are hoping to visit. 

10.) Drinking a bang lassie without realizing what a bang lassie actually is - :)

11.) Having your heart torn out by street children – For most visitors to India, experiencing  extreme poverty is one of the toughest aspects of the trip. The street children seem to know this, milking it to the fullest. Even a stern, cold ass honky like myself has trouble trying to avoid a group of street children. Be prepared for these adorable youngsters trying to hustle you. Just remember, giving money only encourages kids to leave school. As hard as it is to say no, it really is better for the children’s future. 

Hopefully getting passed these situations doesn’t deter you from a visit to India. It may not all be fun and games, but if you are willing to sift through the bad, the good is incredible!

 

Experiencing a cremation in the holy city of Varanasi

Varanasi in all its glory

Like many tourists before me, I arrived in Varanasi looking for a holy experience. With this being one of the main pilgrimage points for Indians, due to its proximity to the holy Ganga River, I thought this may be the place may be a holy catalyst. Varanasi’s storied past and stellar reputation breads excitement. It almost seems as if a trip to India isn’t complete without it. So, after 26 hours on a train and one bumpy rickshaw ride, I found myself on the banks of the holy river, looking for an authentic Indian experience.

I made my way down the slippery, squalid steps of a lesser known Ghat to where all the action was occurring. There was a large gathering, and while normally shy, I found myself weaving through the crowd to see the spectacle at hand. On the temporary banks of the overflowing river, four men ushered a bamboo gurney charioting their fallen loved one. Near where the body would meet the water, there was a wooden altar set ablaze. The men fully submerged the body, then proceeded to chant, pray, and wash themselves and the fallen with the murky, brown water. The body and pallbearers remained submerged for nearly 30 minutes. As the fire was feed and began to grow, my new found boldness faded, and I retreated to a nearby, more secluded perch.

The process of the cremation isn’t one that occurs rapidly. The body, the ushers, and those surrounding spend much time looking out over the flowing waters. As I watched from my elevated vantage point, I noticed that there wasn’t a single female on the banks, or in the surrounding crowd. Unlike a western funeral, I also saw onlookers come to gaze at the procession, as well as try to sell tourists an opportunity to get a nice, “snap” of the body for 200 rupees. At one point, I even had a group of Indians come to take a photo of me, followed with offers to imbibe in their local moonshine and/or potent, burning chillum. The boys were reluctant accept my declination, and were even more reluctant to return to the procession when called, due to an ember still burning in the chillum. This is the point when the body was finally placed atop the mound of flaming logs. After a few moments, I found myself unable to bear anymore. Having experienced enough death in my mere 26 years, and not anxiously anticipating inevitable funerals of loved ones in the future, my time at the cremation came to a close.

While seeing the cremation was the authentic situation I was looking for, I started to feel uncomfortable witnessing something so intimate for a person, a family whom I’ve never known. The truth is, this thought is purely created through a western lens.  India is a spectacle. Each and every day the streets, sounds, and smells are a show, yet not created for an audience. With a population so large, the idea of intimacy or seclusion is next to impossible. People performing all their daily doings publically has created a culture of showmanship where even the simplest acts are under subject of passerby. This has only been exacerbated by the influx of tourists. Whether you are purchasing food for a meal, or the crazy westerner bathing in the Ganga in a bikini, your actions will render a crowd. Knowing this is necessary to survive and thrive in India.

As is life, Varanasi is subject to the same fate as many popular destinations in India; consumer driven and a vestigial of its past. For those willing to sift through the metaphorical shit, Varanasi is a place that offers a plethora of authentic experiences, and a look at what makes India such an appealing destination. The trick is learning how to discern the pukka from the contrived.

Photo courtesy of Mana Hotels

 

15 truths you learn when visiting India

I’ve been running amuck in India for a month now, and I’ll be honest, I don’t understand it. As a traveler, I get the appeal of this amazing, bizarre, and difficult place. As a human being, I’m perplexed. The way I oscillate between the happiest person in the world, devouring every second, every smell, and every sight, to wondering what the hell I’m doing here is astounding. Alas, the overall truth remains is that this is India, and the perplexity is the appeal. Here are 15 truths I've learned amongst a mountain of confusion:

1.       On a single street you can see cows, goats, monkeys, camels, elephants, nice cars, tuk tuks, high class hotels, homeless people, street kids, and dead animals. On top of that, you can also step in shit from a number of sources, roll your ankle on unexpected potholes, and/or be run over by any and all of the above.

2.       Even though the Pound and Euro are worth WAY more rupees than the good ole USD, if you say you are from the states, you are going to get a much higher starting price, and most likely ending price, compared to Europeans. Apparently Americans are suckers…or just don’t come to India as much as our friends over the pond.

3.       On the same note, shopkeepers assess starting price based on country of origin and profession (as well as hotel if you tell them the name). Certain professions will definitely invite adding a few extra rupees to the price.

4.       The more ostentatiously you refuse an offer, the more effective this will be…the only kicker is if the hustler thinks it is funny, they may want to hang out all day. 

5.       Money is an issue in India. Especially in places tourists go, expect to talk about money A LOT.

Chai stand on the street

6.       One way to find out if a person wants to be your friend or if they are just trying to sell you something, is to keep going to their store to say hello after refusing to buy. Many shop keepers will still love to chat and drink chai, but those only wanting money will get annoyed. Take that fake friends!

7.       When it rains in big cities, you will not have any place to take refugee beyond a paying establishment or your guest house. All awnings, roofs, bridges, etc. are taken up by those living on the street. While many of the most generous and caring people I’ve met in India have been those on the street, this is their home and their dry space. Family comes first, and if their children are getting wet, your western ass will be out in the cold faster than you can say fir melengay.

8.       Indian yoga is much different than what you learn in the west. While I really don’t know much about the western yoga (or yoga in general) this is what Indians and westerners keep telling me.

9.       A head nod, wag, or shake does not give a definite answer…unless it follows a person taking a picture. This simple shake to the side means, “Photo is done, I hope you enjoy,” and is the only set response I’ve seen attached to a head shake. 

Being mobbed for photos in Ajmer

10.   Agreeing to a photo with one individual or group of Indians in public is kind of like bringing cupcakes to school. If you bring one, you better have enough for the whole class.

11.   It is absolutely OK to push someone out of the way if they are impeding your stride. Also, if you aren’t quick enough to get off the bus, those getting on will not wait. Getting a seat on a busy bus is not a game in India. 

12.   Rajasthani people aren’t too fond of Israelis. Most of the time, Israelis are the butt of their jokes.

13.   Spirituality doesn’t always exist in temples or at holy sites. Very few holy men and women walk around in guru apparel. India is a very spiritual place, but most of the warmth and divinity has been sucked out of many of the places and people tourists will eventually interact with.

14.   If you are a person who focuses more on the negative than the positive, you are going to struggle. The thing is, negative shit happens. It happens a lot and unless you can see the bright colors surrounding the negativity, India will demolish you.

15.  One cannot take things personally, especially in touristy spots. To many of the Indians you’ll encounter while gallivanting around the country, you are a walking, talking, limitless spring of cash. You are a natural resource, and these shinning individuals are looking to capitalize on it. You will be lied to, forcibly directed to wrong places, and cat called on the daily. But just remember, you aren’t special; this brand of Indian does it to everyone who looks like you! As soon as you learn to not take it personally (as well as to not engage those who are hustlers) a huge weight will be lifted off your weary shoulders.

The Lonely Planet can't prepare you for what's instore

A glimpse of what makes India, India

There were three women in total. They were draped in effervescent saris, naturally colored with dyes reminiscent of the flora surrounding. Vibrant and bright, they were modest, keeping themselves fully covered while washing their bodies and clothes in the Pichola Lake in Udaipur. They used a strong, wooden paddle to beat the dirt and filth from their clothes, simultaneously running soap over their long, flowing, hair like a starless sky. Emancipated from the horns and hollers of the city’s streets, the lake was still in the midmorning. The scene was picturesque. It was exactly what I envisioned when devouring romantic slivers of how India must appear. Little did I know, though, that this scene would occur only a few feet away from a swanky café in India’s most romantic city.

The footbridge over the minuscule piece of the holy lake is reminiscent of those lain in Venice. Tourists, school children, and locals alike use it to gain access to the old city, or escape towards the refreshing air of the surrounding mountains. From its apex, one can see the aging remnants of the royal dynasty and a weathered wall, embellished with spray can angst. The bridge is also the perfect perch to watch the interaction (or lack thereof) between tourists and locals. Opposite the wall, cheery travelers sit on bamboo chairs in combating, neighboring cafes. While they eat western food and drink tea imported, the local women continue to bath. Though they are close enough to share the myth of personal space, it as if both parties exist in different spheres. The women wash, absolving their clothes of grit and grim to a tune a far cry from that emanating from the café. This is India.

While most people have an idealized view of what they believe the subcontinent will be like, India is a rhetorical question. Those flocking to the storied lands seeking cohesive answers are the ones who remain perplexed. The truth is, though not entirely impermeable to globalization, India will always be the antithesis of western standards. Changes occur yet, even with an influx of lavish hotels and upscale western establishments, Indians outside of the tourism industry won’t adhere to foreign influences. India will always be crowded, dusty streets, with free-roaming animals, and a population who does as it sees fit. Peering through a western lens may render a disapproving gaze at this (especially bathing and washing in the same air as fine dining), but India doesn’t bat an eye.

As I peered at the uncanny sight from the insightful bridge, I couldn’t help but admire the proud women going about their routine. Their fortified skin, full body badges of  honest lives lived, boasted contrast to the soft, engaging colors of their country and clothing. While no destination I’ve encountered thus far has made me long for rocky mountain air like India, likewise, none has matched the drive and self-awareness which it has instilled. The pride, confidence, and action, in places the west would host shame, is what makes India so appetizing. Those of us with insatiable hunger can’t help but be tempted by its abundance. The challenge comes, though, in biting off a palatable portion.

Photo courtesy of Traveler's Point